Having completed their peace exchange in the Republic of South Africa, the first team of the Hiroshima World Peace Mission (sponsored by Hiroshima International Cultural Foundation) visited their second destination, Iran, April 5 to 15. Iran is a Muslim country with a very different history and customs that the US government has labeled a part of the "axis of evil." Because of the difficulty of getting accurate information from outside, the five members of the mission entered Iran with considerable anxiety. However, by sitting down together with Iranians, they encountered the real face of this major Middle-Eastern nation. (text and photos by Koichi Okada)

Against the background of snow-covered mountains, young men wave sticks to guide their sheep. The three taxis carrying the Peace Mission and their interpreters kept rolling along the winding mountain road.

One hour by plane from the capital Tehran. Another three and a half hours by car from Urmiya. Finally, they arrive at Sardasht, the city many Iranians call a second Hiroshima.

Houses dot the mountain ridge. Population: about 40,000. Nearly all are members of an Iranian minority known as the Kurds. We are only ten kilometers from the border with Iraq.

"Why were poison gas bombs dropped in this little town?" Hibakusha Takashi Teramoto (69) asked. On June 28, 1987, during the Iran-Iraq War (1980 to 1988), an Iraqi airplane dropped seven mustard gas bombs. Of the population of approximately 12,000 people at the time, 110 died within a few days.

-Clutching hands

Walking through the city guided by a member of a citizens group that aids survivors suffering from aftereffects, we were soon surrounded by residents. Pressed from behind by the crowd, we soon arrived at the home where the bombs exploded.

Coming out to greet us was a poultry farmer Mostafa Asadzadeh (39). After being introduced to Teramoto, he grabbed his hand and began to talk. "That day, our city became a ghost town."

Asadzadeh was in Tehran at the time. He returned the day after the poison gas attack. Everyone had been taken to a nearby hospital, and the city streets were left empty.

He found his 14-year-old brother in the hospital. Already, eight other family members had died. His brother, face burned and disfigured, feebly asked what had happened to the family. He was told, "They went to a foreign hospital for treatment." His brother died as well, eight days after the attack.

Teramoto, who lost his family to the A-bomb, felt his chest tightening up as he listened to Asadzadeh, who suffers from asthma and other aftereffects. After fighting for his composure, Teramoto managed to squeeze out, "Take care of your health." They spoke different languages, but the depth of empathy was communicated. Asadzadeh nodded again and again.

That evening, at City Hall, the mission attended a get-together with residents. About a hundred people squeezed into the hall, spreading out over a hundred photographs of poison gas victims.

"This is my sister." "This is my friend's mother." The guests were eager to explain their situations to the Peace Mission. Nearly all were victims or bereaved families.

-Just like the A-bomb

Teramoto said, "Poison gas and the A-bomb both kill civilians indiscriminately." Unable to hide his rage, he went on, "We have here another example of the horror that happens when human beings becoming demons."

After encountering the reality of poison gas damage, the Mission members used A-bomb photo panels to communicate to the residents the damage done by the atomic bomb. When they were finished, Mayor responded with a few remarks.

"It's been 17 years since the bombing, but we've had almost no visits from foreign NGOs or media organizations. Today, we learned about the horror of the atomic bomb. At the same time, I am extremely happy that our voices have reached the people of Hiroshima."

From now on, when he talks about his experience in Hiroshima, Teramoto intends to mention the bombing of Sardasht as well. He will do so in the belief that "Telling the world about these hidden tragedies is the first step to keeping them from happening again."

(Caption)Teramoto encouraging Asadzadeh (right), victim of the poison gas bombing. Wherever the Mission goes, they draw a crowd.